Dear lord I have over a week to catch up on...

Let's begin with the rest of London.

I think I may do this in a few installments as not to overwhelm myself, or the reader. Enjoy!

Thursday - Kara had work, Tiphaine was still out of town and Mark was asleep so I headed out on my own for breakfast at The Troubadour. I had a full veg breakfast. Quite yummy. I sat in the garden well after I was done eating and only realized I should leave when it started drizzling on my head. I went back to the apartment for a wee bit, chatted away with Mark and suddenly realized it was time to meet Kara. We went to the Waterhouse exhibit and it was lovely. The women were beautiful, powerful, tricky creatures. I bought many postcards.

Kara and I decided to wander a bit and we ended up at Buckingham Palace. I didn't get to see the changing of the guards or take pictures with them or anything which was sort of disappointing BUT the state rooms were open to the public for a fee since The Queen was at Balmoral for the summer. The line was non existent so Kara and I went it. It was pretty exciting to be in a palace that is still used by a royal family. It's a funny thing, royalty. I thoroughly enjoyed myself and even treated myself to a lovely pair of swarovski crystal earrings. As someone I know would say I was "looking out for number one" :-)

After that we headed to Brick Lane for an Indian dinner. What happens is, you walk down the street and everyone tries to get you into their restaurant. They offer you money off your bill, free drinks, etc. I decided on the second place because they offered us a free bottle of wine. Who could turn down that offer, hm? The food was DREADFUL and I am not really one to complain about food. The wine was decent and the conversation was grand so Kara and I had a wonderful time. We ordered Indian ice cream. Kara got pistachio and I got mango. Hers tasted like soap and mine tasted like a candle. Or, was it the other way around? We switched flavors half way through and due to our slight wine buzz we devoured the whole thing despite the taste and our uncontrollable giggles. As our meal was ending two business men sat down at the table next to us. They asked us if our meal was good and we answered honestly that it was one of the worst we had ever had. They didn't seem too pleased.

Dinner being over we headed over to Shoreditch to meet with Simon and his friends. Simon is an old friend of my dear friend Lucy. We had never met but I felt instantly happy and comfortable in his presence. We went to a bar. I don't remember the name and met a bunch of his friends. They were all very fun and lovely. I got on particularly well with John, a Kenneth Branagh look alike who knew a hell of a lot about politics and languages and everything else. He lived in the states for a bit, worked on the Obama campaign and was overall a very fun guy. We all moved on to a different bar and continued to enjoy ourselves. I put back a few Pimm's and Kara and I headed home early enough to take the tube.

Hey Jude...

Yesterday I arrived in London.

I made my way to Earl's Court Mansions where Kara is living along with my dear friend Mark and a few other boarders. The home is owned by Mark's great aunt Lottie. I was not prepared for what a character she was going to be!

I arrived at the house and Mark welcomed me at the door. He showed me my room and took me into the kitchen where Lottie had a cup of tea waiting for me. She is this amazing woman. She is in her 80's. She's a painter and (I think this is the story) part of The Hapsburg family who lost all of their wealth during the 2nd world war. She is Austrian by birth but has the most beautiful, lyrical English accent. She is gentle and smart and a classic English lady, I think. She calls me things like "Sweetie" and "My love". I adore her.

I freshened up, rested a bit and then headed down into the tube with Mark. He introduced me to two of his musician friends on the way out of the house. They seemed very cool. Total hipsters but again without the NYC pretension.

Mark and I rode the tube and chatted away. We parted ways at Leicester Square and I met up with my dearest Kara!

We saw "Hamlet" at The Donmar west end. The theater was beautiful, our seats were great and the show was a massive success, with one or two exceptions (see Ophelia and Gertrude. Ugh, no heart, no commitment, totally insincere in every word and action they made.)

Jude... wow... just wow.

He is totally possessed by the character. Every syllable, blink, hand gesture, everything is purely belonging to his Hamlet. he handles the asides like no one I have ever seen. An amazing pace is kept up but everything is so brilliantly clear. He is a revelation on stage.

After the show we walked to this yummy vegan place. Oh man, the food was amazing. I can't even remember what I had except for the vegan shepherds pie. YUM!

We walked some more through Leicester Square, The West End, China Town, Covent Gardens, etc.

It was so lovely.

I am really liking London.

We then went out for a drink at the Troubadour with Mark,

Really great atmosphere. Jimi Hendrix etc used to play there.

And, I had a Pimm's Cup. Um, why have I never had one of these before???

They are AMAZING!

Kara and I went to sleep early. She is now off at work and I am getting ready for the day. Might take a walk with Mark (Abbey Road anyone?), might wander alone and then I am meeting up with Kara this afternoon to see the pre Raphaelite exhibit and to have dinner at Brick Lane.

half way

I am standing in CDG airport waiting for my easyjet flight to board.

I had a brilliant last few days in Paris with Granny.
We took our 14 hour trip to Normandy. Seeing the landing beaches and the bomb craters. thinking about the men who lost their lives and what they were fighting for made me very emotional.

It wasn't the most exciting trip I have ever taken (nor was the guide very pleasant) but I am glad I did it.

We met two very fun Irish/Italian couples from the Boston area. They were a hoot and a half!

I think I will make a very good older lady one day. I certainly get along with them well enough.

grandma and I had planned to go to The Hemingway Bar at The Ritz when we got home from Normandy but we were so exhausted that we both passed out and slept until about 10am the next day.

Yesterday we just took it easy. Late breakfast. Shopping and strolling on Blvd St. Michele. Sitting in the shade in the Luxembourg gardens. Eating an early dinner. It was lovely just watching the world go by.

We headed back to the hotel and got all dolled up for The Ritz.

It is oh so opulent there and it makes me want to become instantly affluent.

The Hemingway Bar is still my favorite bar in the world.

It was almost empty when we arrived at around 9pm on a Tuesday.

I had a cocktail called The Serendipity. it was fresh mint, apple juice, a drop of Calvados and it was topped with Champagne. Tres Bien! Granny got the Papa Doble. It was vodka, maraschino liquer, grapefruit juice and lime. Yum! Definitely worth the 30 euro each.

We sat and laughed and chatted for a long time. Took pictures in the halls and sitting room and even in the restroom!

We had a lovely time together.

I feel so grateful to have shared this part of my trip with Grandma Ann.

She is so funny and kind and I just love her so much!

I look forward to our next trip together!

Well, I am off to London!

Seeing Jude Law play Hamlet this afternoon. WOOHOO!

xoxo

I haven't even been away for two weeks yet?

Well, we did in fact sit on the beach for the rest of the evening in Nice.

Instead of going to Opera Plage we went to Castel.

Much better!

Nicer beach, nicer chairs, nicer waiters, nicer looking clientele, etc etc etc...

We stayed there until about 7pm. Tanning, sipping pastis, nibbling on panini, flirting with waiters, splashing in the crystal blue water... twas paradise and we hated to leave.

We discussed the possibility of staying a few more days but we had a hotel and a flight to Paris waiting for us in the morning.

We took the elevator up to Chateau Nice. It was beautiful. We watched the sun dipping in the sky with the waterfall flowing in the background.

We then showered and headed out for dinner, a stroll in the old city and a search for Socca.

We did not get Socca but we did have a lovely dinner. Although Grandma was very surprised when her Gnocchi came covered in beef gravy. She was a sport about it though.

The next morning, bright and early, we were off for Paris.

We are staying at L'Hotel Design Sorbonne, right around the corner from our first hotel and directly across for The Sorbonne.

The design aesthetic here is much more modern and I like it! Very young and chic.

We headed out after showers to Musee D'Orsay. it did not disappoint and Grandma really enjoyed it. She (as well as I) loves the impressionists. I was particularly taken but the naturalists this time around. We saw almost the whole museum in just under 3 hours. Much more manageable than the Louvre.

After the Musee we went (via taxi, due to metro refurbishments on the line we needed) to Sacre Couer. We got there about 15 minutes into mass so we stayed. It was a very special experience.

After mass I found St. Michael's Chapel (which is almost totally dedicated to St. Joan's story) and said a prayer. We left the Basilica and went to the French version of a diner. The food was fairly awful (I had a crepe avec fromage, tomate and a fried oeuf) but the view of Sacre Couer was stellar!

We then went in search on the hilly streets of Montmarte for Au Lapin Agile.

After a very valiant effort of Grandma's behalf we stopped at a hotel and called a cab.

Arriving at Au Lapin Agile was magic. We drove along Rue Lepic (one of the oldest streets in Paris) to get there. The cabaret itself is located in this charming old house at the top of an old street. You walk in to a little, dimly lit room with many sorts of artwork hanging on the walls. The singers sit at a big table in the middle of a room and sing together, alone, they make you sing a long, they each have their own solo sections where all the other singers clear out of the room. You are handed a glass of cherry wine and everything is sung and said in French but it doesn't matter. the history of the cabaret (it's been around since the 1860's I believe) and the magic of the performers explained everything. I can't really put it into words but it transported me. I wanted to cry. It felt so genuine and there was so much hearts. Some of the singers have been there since the 40's. I really suggest you go and see a performance if you can. 24 euro gets you one drink and all the French folk music you could ever wants (along with love songs, drinking songs and classic like La Vie En Rose, etc). I plan to go back as soon as humanly possible.

Today, Granny and I went to Versailles after sleeping in and a late breakfast.
it was terribly hot and crowded, we didn't get to see Marie Antoinette's Estate and I didn't get my orange juice but it was still beautiful and magical.

While at Versailles, right when I was starting to get cranky and moody, I got a phone call that made me smile for some hours after. So thank you to the fellow that provided me with happy thoughts. You know who you are :-)

We walked (see also, trudged) back towards the train station.

We were famished so we stopped at an Italian/French place.

The food was awful.

My "Risotto" tasted like white rice boiled in heavy cream. GAG! But the atmosphere was fine and the young man who was the night manager was a doll.

He is DYING to go to NYC and was very excited to meet a real New York actress.

I gave him my card 9I have been giving it out to lots of fun people on this trip!) and told him I'd take him for a cafe and point him to some fun spots if he ever makes it to The Grande Pomme.

After our RER/Metro trip back to The Latin Quarter we got a drink (Pastis for me a Coca Lite for Granny) and watched the city go by.

We are home now and I need to shower.

We are waking up at 6am four a 14 hours tour of Normandy.

Grandma is VERY excited. I think it should be very special...

It's fun to be a short drive from so many other countries...

Two nights ago Granny and I got all "tres chic" and headed off to a night in Monaco.
We walked around the palace which was so stunning.
Wonderfully clean, peaceful. Very much like a fairy tale.
We learned a lot about The Grimaldi's and then went down to Monte Carlo for dinner.
It was not the best meal of my life but it was passing and we met a nice couple. They were Cuban American and very sweet.
The man was sort of like Ricky Ricardo. He called Grandma "Bella Nonna" and me, just plain "Bella". After dinner we walked around for a bit and then headed home.

Our tour guide for the evening was HYSTERICAL! She is originally from the north of China and moved to France 7 years ago after marrying her French husband.
She kept taking pictures of me and saying things like "I should have know you were an actress! That is why you are so pretty. I was thinking oh why is she so pretty!". Then she was obsessively taking pictures of me. Posed, candid, etc. She said I really knew how to 'make a picture". She had lots of historical info and plenty of gossip. She drove us by Sean Connery's house (Grandma was thrilled!), pointed out where Bill gates has a home, told us the kind of salary's housekeepers get ($500,000 a year!) and how much it is to rent an apartment on the Grand Prix Circuit during the race ($45,000 for 3 days!!!).

Yesterday we took an all day tour to Aix en Provence. It was a private tour and our guide was Leo, a native Nicoise. He was dapper and dressed all in white, gave great information etc.

Aix was wonderfully charming. We got to see where Cezanne died, saw a Cezanne and Picasso retrospective at the museum, had lunch (I had an amazing salad with watermelon and orange melon and yum, yum, yum! followed by a stewed peach concoction with the obligatory glass of Rose from Aix.)

We also stumbled across 'Rue de la Masse". Leo told me it is a very typically French last name, specific especially to the south of France. See! I told you I was French! In one of the cathedral's I saw a painting of the wedding of the last King of Provence. he had four daughters. I am actually reading a book about them at home so that was cool. Also, i discovered there is a St. Sarah! She was Mary the Virgin mother's attendant!

The only bump in the road was when Leo pulled me aside to ask me if I might join him for a drink later that evening. Flustered, I said I'd have to check with Grandma. His response was to tell me to eat dinner with her and then meet him later. Anytime. As late as I want... EW!

Anyway, after Aix we went to St. Maixime and saw Mary Magdalen's skull. It was sort of amazing.

After a long drive home Granny and I went out for a relaxing dinner in the heart of Old Nice. We listened to some fun musicians. I think they were called 'The Basketeers" and had some glace and went home.

Today, we took a trip to Ventimiglia in Italy. We went to the market. It was a mad house. I'd like to see Italy some other time. I feel this wasn't a fair representation of the country.
I had a yummy sandwich of roasted a veggies and olive oil and an espresso so all was not wasted. I also bough some gifts :-)

After Ventimiglia we went to Menton right over the border in France. It is right on the sea and is surrounded by mountains. it is much more charming than Nice and I think I'd like to stay there next time I arrive in the south of France.

Until then, I will sit on the beach, walk up to the Chateau and look at more apartment prices in the newspaper :-)

Glace for Breakfast is OK by me...

Today we headed off at about 12:30pm (so late!) and went directly to the Fluer Marche.

It was exactly how I had remembered it.

We bought some peaches and pears and plums. yum!

I bought my olives and tomates provencales form the lovely woman who runs the stand and then went on a hunt for my baguette and fromage.

The man who usually sells them was already gone! Oh no!

So, Granny and I went off in search for the rest of our picnic on the streets of old Nice.

We wandered for a bit not finding anything open.

We came upon the who ice cream shop that I remembered from my last trip.
They must have at least 70 flavors (including, olive, rosemary, etc...)

Grandma got rhubarb and apricot sorbets and I got Vanilla and Lavender ice cream.
It was our first meal of the day and it was oh, so good.

I got directions to a place where I could buy a baguette and we headed over there.

It was a nice, leisurely walk through the heart of old Nice and we both enjoyed it.

When we got to the boulangerie it was closed until 3:30!

So, we thought we'd get a coffee and cool off for a bit.

All of the socca places and cafe's were packed so we went into this little restaurant called Oliveria.

Little did I know it would be some of the best food I had ever put in my mouth!

They specialize is Olive oil from all different regions with all different tastes.

We got some tomatoes with mozzarella and some pureed aubergines and peppers.

It tasted like the sun and the earth and it was amazing.

Different dishes got different oils.

The gentleman that owns the place used to live in Manhattan so we had a nice chat.

I would highly suggest anyone who is anywhere near Nice go to this establishment!

After our little meal we bought our baguette (finally!) but there was no fromage :-(

We walked back to our hotel with the intention of walking up to the Chateau that looks over the city but instead we booked ourselves a trip to Monaco and Monte Carlo with a 3 course dinner.

Grandma is getting all dolled up as we speak and I am just sitting here trying to remember every slight, smell, taste and color...

It's starting to all blur together...

I will write about the last day Granny and I had in Paris (until we return in 3 days hehehe)...

We got up early and decided we would go to Versailles. We had a Seine dinner cruise planned for the evening and we thought a nice day among gorgeous grounds and massive opulence would put us in the right mood to be wined and dined and cruised.

We left the Hotel and headed towards the closest metro. My plan was to grab a quick croissant and a cafe and head on our way also possibly buying a picnic lunch.

We went into a patisserie to make our purchases but spotted a very yummy looking cafe across the street so we decided on a sit down breakfast and a picnic lunch.

The food was GORGEOUS! I have an omelet with potatoes, gruyere and tomatoes. Of course it came with a salade and the obligatory cafe creme.

After our food we headed to the metro, got off to make our RER connection and made a terrible discovery. It was Monday. Versailles is closed on Monday. MERDE! Back to the metro it was but... wait... our stop is closed for repairs? MERDE!

We were quite far from our hotel so we did what any sensible girl would do... we hailed a cab (which took a VERY long time...)

Instead of Versailles we decided to do Notre Dame and Saint Chapelle.

Notre Dame was stunning as always. Grandma was very happy to be there.

The line for the bell tower was mad so I did not go up.

Instead we had a nice relaxing lunch in the shadow of Notre Dame. It's this little cafe/creperie I went to with Katie. I had a salade (with too much fromgae! I had to take some of it off) and a 1664.

Next, we walked along the seine to get to Saint Chappele. To my shock and total delight waiting right on the corner was Bertillon! The worlds best ice cream which I somehow managed to miss last time I was in Paris. I was surprised to find it open because my guidebook so it was closed for August. But they were wrong! I had a double order of nougat and caramel. mmmm heaven....

Saint Chappele was not a disappointment. The top floor (which is really what you want to see) was closed for renovations when I was here two years ago. It is totally stunning. The books of The Bible are on the stained glass windows and there is this balcony at the end.

So stunning. The chapel is also heavily decorated with fleurs des lis. They had this lovely pair of silver fleur des lis earrings so I got a pair.

After all of this we went back to the hotel and got all glammed out for our night on the seine.

The cruise was lovely.

In my opinion the food left a bit to be desired but in these cases you are paying for the experience more than anything.

Granny and I got a prime table right at the very front corner of the boat.
The views were superb and so was the wine. We almost finished a bottle of Rose which is a big feat since Grandma rarely drinks at all!

My favorite part of the night was when I said "you know, there is a smaller version of the statue of liberty somewhere on the seine, I have never seen it though. I wonder where it is?" Not 1 minute later "New York, New York" starts playing on the sound system and I look up to see Lady Liberty staring me in the face with The Eiffel Tour in the background! I nearly cried :-)

Our night ended with packing and then the next morning we headed to the airport for Nice!

I love it here. The air, the light, the food.

It is so wonderful.

We arrived at The Hotel Suisse and discovered that we have a gorgeous room with an amazing view of the bai de anglaise. I think I have a knack for booking hotels with great views!

We unwound for a few minutes and walked down about 100 m to the private Opera Plage. We had lounge chairs and an umbrella and waiter service. It was a perfect day at the beach in my opinion. I think Grandma enjoyed herself a lot as well although due to the treacherous and rocky entrance and exit into the water she only went in once. I think I must have gone in and out 6 or 7 times :-)

We got back to the hotel, showered and ate dinner at cafe Bliss. It is just across from the port.

It was a cute little family run place that specialized in pizza.

The owners sister was born in Australia but has lived in Nice for the past 40 years. She had this very charming accent. A combination of Aussie and Nicoise. And, she spoke a form of Franglish (what I call the oh so effective combination of French and English words to convey some sort of message to someone) that puts mine to utter shame.

I had a salad of lettuce, tomato, love, warm brie and some little savory chevre pastry followed by a massive and impossible to finish pizza du jardin. it had herbs de provence on it and I was happy.

We took a walk along the boulevard de anglias and went to bed.

We were very tired and accidentally slept until 10:30. Whoops!

Our plan is to go into Vielle Ville and then head out to Monaco and Cannes. We'll see what happens...